Years late to a table at Lombardi’s, I sat at the red and white checkered table full of vague expectation. I have long left the pizza debate in the hands of the more zealous. I wondered vainly what more could be added to the conversation.
We went boldly for the Margherita. Sweet sausage, wild mushrooms–this simple order was sent straight to the oven. The white pizza contended fiercely, and the clam pizza intrigued, but what better way to judge a classic but with a classic. Aspirations for a calzone were defeated by aspirations to fit into my holiday attire. This left us waiting for just the six simple slices to fill our expectation.
When it did arrive, it landed in all of its melted mozzarella glory. The sweet sausage glistened, sweating fat and flavor into every bite. Fold or without, as the pizza neared you, the deep aroma of mushrooms enveloped. The thin dough held its integrity, all the way to the end of the fold you felt and consumed its undeniable presence. A grand pie.
And that seemed to be that at the end of a long held breath. Delicious, without question, but questionable if it is without equal. I find that pizza will remain a kind of politics from which I will refrain. However, It felt good to pay homage to an institution, and to go back to basics and to find toppings I still recognize.
What does this rating mean?
P.S. This institution only takes cash.
32 Spring St
New York, NY 10012