Tapas as a trend has serious pros and cons. The small plates for grazing usually leave me either short of satiated or short on cash. And yet, how does the casual wine pairing ambiance ever fall from favor–Iberico ham scores points even if sparingly rationed. With that said, I found myself last Sunday, 30 minutes away from a seat for two. Tertulia was the coveted meal of the night, and with Chef Mullen basking in praise, I was excited to see what he had put together. While Tertulia used to denote a literary salon, I was looking now for a different kind of inspiration.
Tertulia on 6 Avenida
A view at the kitchen.
The space was small, like their plates. The half dozen plus bar seats open up to a slightly larger dining area, exposing you to the hustle and bustle of the back of house. Having walked past the cheese display, we immediately kick-started our meal with a trio of cheese and two glasses of simple red. Tertulia’s Asturias roots brings its diners closer to the “cheese capital” of Spain and we were certainly pleased with the plate. Being Asian, I still struggle with the intricacies of cheese, but every meal is a chance to brave stinkier dairy still. This Northern region of Spain is home to Cabrales among others, apparently often endowing their cheeses with the “fragrant taste of clovers” says the New York Times, due to the green grass in the area. I could have benefited from a better explanation from the staff, but I am sure more tempered palates will enjoy their selection.
Start with a cheese plate.
Similarly, I don’t profess to know very much about wine, but I feel that Tertulia won’t disappoint–their wine list is yours to explore. Might I suggest however, to pair them with some fried Padron peppers with “lots of sea salt.” Chances are when you read this blog, these little peppers still won’t be in season (late fall says our waiter), which means the heat is turned down. God knows how these peppers made it to our plates, but come autumn time, I’ll be sure to find these capsesin packed suckers.
Padron peppers.
The next plate up was the Tosta Huevo Roto Y Jamon Iberico, which translats to a crushed egg, potato, Iberico ham combination. The flavors were good, with the Iberico ham easily cutting through the egg and potato, but the texture made it crumble on contact. Eating this gracefully will be a challenge for even the most conscientious eaters.
We shyed away from the paella (two people armed with new years resolutions in good conscience could not eat a rice dish for four), but we were still adamant on sampling the seafood. We chose the stuffed squid, or the chipirones rellenas. The merguez sausage, I am sorry to report, was under represented. Nonetheless, it was a solid showing–the chewiness of the squid contrasting nicely with the softer, thoroughly cooked black rice.
Stuffed squid.
Our last savory tapas was the lamb, Cordero. The token vegetable of the day, cauliflower, was pleasantly seasoned and paired well with the delicate lamb. The creamy bed of farro was similarly subtle, but offered a third texture profile.
Lamb and cauliflower.
The meal ended happily, as many do. Tertulia reunited me with Torrija Caramelizada. This humble, simple toast was first served to me as the final tapas at Degustation years ago, and again it reincarnated in the plate before me. This time, the toast was more charred, heated with an iron-like instrument. It came darkened with flavor and paired with a rich, nutty hazelnut ice cream. Our other plate of glazed pears, peras en jarabe, was nicely composed with lemon and ginger, but was far less satisfying.
Bread for dessert.
To make a big statement in a bite can be challenging, but Tertulia does its heritage proud. Some peer reviews from Spanish cuisine veterans are mixed, but generally, it seems consistent in its delivery and true to its origins. I find the food sophisticated, well thought out and well executed. While the space might be somewhat too rowdy for some and the line upfront too discouraging, food lovers will appreciate the sincerity of its food and the variety of its menu.
Jessie
Rating: 
Tertulia
359 6th Ave
New York, NY 10014
(646) 559-9909
http://www.tertulianyc.com
