Waza Sushi and Ramen Review

As a fan of traditional Japanese cuisine, it’s always a bit difficult to write about a neighborhood Japanese restaurant, where the odds of success hinge on the creativity of Americanized sushi rolls and “fusion” dishes. Trying to present my view on these places is like asking a student of classic oil paintings to judge modern sculptures. Perhaps I’m the one at fault for not appreciating some of the complex flavors and textures from these rolls, but as I learn I can only judge upon what I know.

Waza Sushi and Ramen in Clinton Hill is one such neighborhood Japanese restaurant that I recently visited. The name, which translates roughly into “craft” or “skill”, is an ambitious attempt to please both diners of raw fish and noodle in fatty pork broth. In an up and coming neighborhood where adventurous diners are still few and far between, they also have a full kitchen churning out hot dishes for those who prefer their fish less translucent.

Not surpisingly given the restaurant’s name, the sushi and ramen are the standouts. Our meal started with a sashimi platter featuring many premium cuts of fish and shellfish, with fairly pleasant plating that is more shock-and-awe than to subtle pleasure. I was very pleasantly surprised to see real grated wasabi (not sure how pure though) rather than the powder based mixture found at most Japanese restaurants. The raw seafood was very fresh, and the ample slice sizes are very satisfying.

With such high quality fish, I had high hopes for the nigiri sushi and the rolls. The quality of the sushi making, however, still cannot transcend the neighborhood status. The rice lacked distinct texture, and in my opinion was under seasoned. I was also disappointed how the grated wasabi served during sashimi was replaced with the powder based variant for sushi. The cuts of fish, slightly on the large side (though on par for Americanized restaurants), was well prepared and as expected fresh and tasty.

Cooked dishes were a mixed bag. Plating and flavors were literally all over the place. Sometimes less is more. They ought to go easy on the panko bread crumbs and shredded beets, it’s really not necessary on every plate.

Thankfully, the ramen was beautifully simple. With your usual choices of soup bases, the broth was not overly fatty and had rich flavors. The slices of pork was very well braised, breaking apart the slightest bite. Noodles were nicely cooked too.

It’s rare to see a restaurant that does raw fish and ramen well, this was a very pleasant surprise. I might have been nitpicking along the way as a sushi enthusiast, as far as neighborhood joints go, Waza is a very solid options for sushi and sashimi. What really does it for me was the ramen, which taste fantastic and is a great value.

CS

Rating:  

From the notebook: Score reflects excellent ramen, and the very fresh cuts of fish. While not a destination restaurant, this would be a great go-to neighborhood joint. Plating needs work. Chalk art on the wall was done by a local artist, neat stuff. 2 dishes were complimentary through a friend who knows the owner, and I was in no way obligated to write about the restaurant.

Waza Sushi and Ramen
485 Myrtle Ave
Brooklyn, NY 11205
(718) 399-9292