Chinese cuisine has always been difficult to serve in an upscale, western atmosphere. The problem is scale. Formal Chinese food is usually served grand: large portions placed on round tables for groups. On the other hand, western dining is best showcased during a candle-lit, white linen dinner for two.
In the past, attempts to bring Chinese cuisine into a formal, western setting have proved awkward. Shrinking Chinese classics, then plating the food as a delicate “entree” simply does not do the food justice. Some restaurateurs even resort to simply jacking up the price on basic Chinese dishes to appeal to the well to doers, which barely makes any sense.
Instead of looking at what Chinese eat, I find that a big part of Chinese dining is how Chinese people eat. In some ways, a Chinese meal is a tasting menu, or an assortment of tapas. Despite food being served on a communal plate, diners expect to sample small portions of many different dishes, rather than focusing on an entree. Therefore, the idea should be to bring Chinese cooking concepts and methods upscale, rather than taking General Tsao into high society.
That's Ms. Gael Greene in the corner.
When I first heard about Red Farm, I was admittedly skeptical. High brow Chinese has been done before, but none of the restaurants felt right. Withholding predispositions, I arrived at the last day of the soft launch hoping to be surprised.
Located on a half floor walk-up, the decor of Red Farm lives up to its name, a farmhouse. With a long communal table in the center, and small booth tables along the side, the space is cozy and intimate. The bar in the back seats but 4 people, and on this evening the room was packed.The meal started off with an assortment of dishes listed under Small Bites. Yuzu-Wasabi Shrimp had the texture of the deep fried, mayo coated shrimp you’d find in many Cantonese restaurants, but except the version at Red Farm had a much more sophisticated flavor. The taste was certainly there, but somehow I still thought it lacked a bit of innovation.
Deep fried shrimp balls with yuzu and wasabi.
The doubt was quickly vanished by the second plate, which was a Smoked Salmon & Eggplant Bruschetta. The smoked salmon has delicious flavor, and buttery tender. Replacing bread with a tempura eggplant slice was a brilliant play with texture. This was the perfect finger food.
The soft tempura fried eggplant, brilliant!
Next up was the Kowloon Filet Mignon Tarts. While I do not understand what’s Kowloon about this, the tender meat and pastry tart was a delicious combination. The Duck and Fuji Apple wrap had a nice sweet and savory sauce, though picking it up on the tiny slice of lettuce without making a mess was slightly tricky.
Kowloon beef tart with picked ginger garnish.
Duck and Fuji Apple wrap.
Shu Mai shooters was another innovative item, deconstructing the flavors and ingredients of a traditional Shu Mai. The way the natural flavors mix and blend as you bite the meat, taste the mushrooms, then chase with warm carrot and ginger broth shows the level of detail Chef Ng has taken with constructing his menu.
Deconstructed Shu Mai Shooter.
Originally when I was ordering, I was planning to skip the salad. Luckily the General Manager, a personal friend, insisted that I try the salad. Using a plating method popularized by chefs across Europe, the chef starts with a tofu and artichoke puree, then meticulously “plant” ingredients into the puree, onto the plate. I’ve always joked that Chinese people don’t eat, and certainly don’t make salads. This was one of the best salad’s I’ve ever had.
One phenomenal salad.
As we’re now finished with appetizers, it was time for some dumplings. We started with the obligatory Pac Man Shrimp Dumplings, which since the original images hit the internet, is becoming the signature dish of the restaurant. The shrimp dumplings are certainly very good, but nothing you cannot find at a decent dim sum destination. However I have to give props for the innovative coloring and plating, and Pac Man doesn’t taste half bad either, especially with the avocado.
The (in)famous Pac Man Shrimp Balls
The Katz’s Pastrami Egg Roll was perhaps the biggest surprise of the day. When I first read this menu item online, it was being ridiculed as gimmicky. After the first bite, this was fusion that worked. Red Farm sources its pastrami from Katz’s at $10/lb, you definitely taste the quality.
Pastrami spring rolls, who'd have thought.
Having had such a great time up to this point, it was time for the biggest challenge. Entrees. Red Farm had delivered a diverse range of flavors, but how can it excel with the singular large portions? The Marinated Rib Steak, cooked expertly to a pink medium rare, was unabashedly simple in plating. In fact, on the surface you’d be hard pressed to differentiate it from the generic, rubbery steak you’d find at Chinese restaurants. One bite, and you’ll notice the significant different. This cut of meat was superb, and the marinate spot on. It’s a large steak, probably better to share.
Boring plating, great cut of meat.
The sea bass, on the other hand, tasted just like steamed fish from a Chinese restaurant, except taken off the large plate and decorated with asparagus. After all of the innovative touches, it was strangely grounded, and muted in flavor.
Dessert was a lychee mousse, served with a tiny raspberry. The lychee was sweet, and the mousse exceptionally creamy. I preferred a bit more acidity to cut through the sweetness, maybe another raspberry?
Creamy lychee dessert.
Red Farm is a concept that sounds far fetched, but is pulled together beautifully. Serving innovative food beyond anything that you’ll find at Chinatown, while retaining elements of Chinese cuisine that’s distinct and exciting. As long as the team continues to execute the concept, I believe this is one Chinese restaurant that every type of diner can agree with.
The meal was compliments of the General Manager who is a personal friend. This did not influence the review. Menu items are still being finalized, and are subject to change. However most of the items I described are pretty damn good, and should stay.
CS
Rating: 
Red Farm
529 Hudson St
New York, NY 10014
(212) 792-9700
www.redfarmnyc.com
