Restaurant Nippon – Serving it old school

As a avid follower of sites like Eater.com, my day is filled with information regarding the latest and greatest in the NYC culinary scene. Just reading the website can make you very hungry, and by the weekend I’m usually equipped with one or more reservations.

But the fact is, once the hype surrounding these freshly minted restaurants gradually recedes, it’s safe to say that in a few years time many will no longer be with us. In my desperation to shift my budget to the grand openings, I fear that I was missing out on many of the classics. It was at that time that I decided to make an effort to experience the classics across all cuisines.

The journey starts at a restaurant of historic significance. Restaurant Nippon, the first Japanese restaurant in New York.

Or is it? There’s certain debate amongst experts in the field. During a panel held by Mr. Trevor Corson, a sushi expert, he mentioned that Takesushi was the first. However, most internet sources seem to give the title to Restaurant Nippon. On a national level, there’s another significant achievement: Nippon boasts the first sushi bar counter in the country in 1963.

Now before we dig into the history books to fact check, one thing is irrefutable: Nippon brought Japanese Cuisine to the NYC stage in grand style. The year after the launch, they were awarded 3 stars from the New York Times in 1964. In fact, you can say this is the pioneer restaurant that paved the way for Takesushi, Hatsuhana, and later on Nobu, and Yasuda.

Nippon (which just stands for Japan) was traditional then, and it still remains traditional now. A welcome change of pace comparing to the more hip and happening places. The space, which probably was transcending for New Yorkers of the 1970s, remains interesting today with private rooms, a sushi bar on an elevated area, and a tempura grill behind a clear glass shield, where you can see the chefs make tempura live without the risk of splatter!

The sashimi and sushi were fresh and well made, but lack the refined excellence you’d find in today’s specialized sushi destinations. Not having fresh wasabi was slightly disappointing, although they are offered at an supplement.

The sukiyaki dish was well made, and a good way to fill your stomach with premium beef, tofu, and vegetables in a sweet and savory broth. This is very much a meal on its own, just add a steamy bowl of rice.

There is, however one thing where Nippon has found a niche in: Soba. The restaurant owns a farm in Canada as a source of buckwheat, and also has an offshoot restaurant that specializes in Soba alone. The menu has a massive section dedicated to Soba, served hot, cold, or even with a salad. One taste and you’ll understand why they take so much pride in their soba. The noodles have excellent flavor, and are cooked al dante, the Japanese way. While fresh grated wasabi is added money for sushi and sashimi, the soba course came with a bit of fresh wasabi as a topping of the cold noodles.

Nippon was created in an era where  its was alright to showcase of every aspect of Japanese cuisine, today Japanese restaurants are all about specialization. Nippon might no longer reign as the best sushi, sashimi, or kaiseki, but you’d be hard pressed to find all of this at a single place. (Except maybe Hatsuhana, ironically another restaurant from the early days)

CS

Rating:  

Restaurant Nippon (Make a Reservation)
155 E 52nd St
New York, NY 10022