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Morimoto – Iron Chef grandeur in NYC

I’ve been to Morimoto over 6 times since it opened, more than any other Japanese restaurant in New York. However it’s not because of the food, and coincidentally I’ve never fully reviewed it. Usually food critics rush to review a restaurant when it opens, but by waiting 4 years, I believe it paints a more complete picture.

I would say my first exposure of truly inspiring dining was from watching subtitled episodes of the original Fuji TV Iron Chef. As a high school student in Taiwan, all i could was admire the artistry through the TV screen. The thoughts of ever getting to experience cuisine on this level was beyond my imagination.

After graduating college in Connecticut, I arrived in the city and started to embrace the dining scene. Despite my limited knowledge of food at the time, when I heard that Morimoto was going to open a restaurant back in 2006, I was ecstatic.

Morimoto's signage near ground level.

My first trip to Morimoto was on Oscar night, 2006. I remember this fondly because it started my tradition of dining out each year on Oscar night, when restaurants are quiet and almost serene. We ordered the Omakase, which was beautifully presented, some courses truly inspirational, but overall lacked the polish of Nobu.

Pretty, yes. Tasty?

Some sashimi with oyster in the box.

Despite the slight disappointment, having a photo taken with Mr. Morimoto made my day.

Jessie, myself and Chef Morimoto back in 06.

A trip to Morimoto in Phily in the subsequent year was an eye opening experience. The menu was similar, but the execution was spot on. That made me decide to give Morimoto another shot, since I believe with more time, the New York restaurant should be as good as the Philadelphia one, if not better.

In 2009, I organized a company dinner at Morimoto for 35 guests, which was an excellent experience. From the customized menus to the wonderful cocktails, the contemporary fusion menu was well received by the entire party. Well received, but yet again not totally blown away. The restaurant did feel a lot more organized and much sharper than my first visit 3 years ago.

Since then, I have stopped by a few more times. Each time I head straight down to the bar, and snack on the full menu of appetizers. The quality of the food has steadily improved, and the drinks (especially the Morimoto Beers by Rogue Breweries) are epic. The bartenders are among some of the friendliest in the city. When a favorite drink of mine was taken off the menu, a bartender taught me how to replicate it at home.

Gorgeous, spacious bar

On my most recent trip I enjoyed the spicy king crab legs, and a tofu cheesecake. Despite having eaten dinner across the street (a disappointing trip to Calicchio & Sons), I still stuffed myself happily. Like all restaurants, it takes time for the team to gel, and this one has certainly matured.

Spicy king crab, sauce is the same color as the shell.

While this is not the place for “authentic Japanese sushi”, and is perhaps not as romantic as the French restaurants around the city. What you’ll get at Morimoto is innovative cuisine that will inspire you, plus a bar that’s among one of my favorite in the city.

Catching sight of the celebrity chef working behind the counter isn’t too bad either.

CS

Rating: ★★★½☆ 

Morimoto (Make a Reservation)
88 10th Ave
New York, NY 10011

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