Kenmare has closed in October, 2011. The basement lounge might remain, but nobody knows at this point.
I’ve often described dining as a multi-sensory experience. Smell and taste are a given at any great restaurant. Great plating and decor makes for an eye pleasing experience. Textures of the courses stimulate the tongue, while design elements draw my hands to touch. The quiet chatter of the guests, the insulated bustling kitchen, the muted chopping block of a sushi bar, and rarely some sizzling plates, these are the sounds of gastronomy.
All these senses are complementary, however occasionally one overwhelms the others.
This week I ventured to one of the hottest restaurants on the scene, Kenmare. Situated on Kenmare Street, right on the edge of Little Italy, it’s not exactly an ideal location for a restaurant aside from an overflow traffic from the bridge. Every 10 minutes or so, the 6 train rumbles beneath the ground, causing ripples in the wine. Yet somehow, barely a few months into its existence, it’s defined itself as a trendy hot spot.
Perhaps an unique cast behind the scenes can explain this phenomenal celebrity. Kenmare is the brainchild of nightlife veterans Nur Khan and Paul Sevigny, who brought on board Little Owl’s Joey Campanaro to design the menu and run the kitchen. In my own experience, nightlife and fine dining are usually sequential activities, mixing is usually hazardous to your tastes.
Kenmare's dimly lit except for a neon sign (not pictured)
Now the owners are adamant that this place is a restaurant, not a night club. However once you enter, you sense a conflict in identity. The beautiful hostesses don’t command the house like a traditional maitre d’, but instead reminds me of the managers behind a velvet rope. The only difference is that the clipboard is replaced with the touchscreen Opentable.
Then there’s the bar, bustling and overflowing with people, on a Tuesday, at 9:30PM.
10PM on a Tuesday, Kenmare was still packed.
The menu was fairly simple, appetizers on one page, entrees on the other. Kenmare definitely feels more like a gastro pub than a restaurant.
The appetizer crab cake with arugula and marinated onions was moist and tasty, a solid start.
An excellent crabcake.
Then the entrees arrived. I once again ordered scallops, which were char grilled. Chefs often say “no color, no flavor”, this was a bit too much charred flavors.
Charred scallops, packed with (a bit too much) flavor
The wild striped bass with lobster orzo was delicious. Chunks of lobster in the risoni really impressed me.
Wild striped bass with lobster orzo
So this restaurant has good food, looks great, has great looking people, but why can’t I recommend it as a fine dining destination? The noise was simply overwhelming. I found myself shouting at my guest just to carry out a conversation. Listen to this clip below.
Yes, aside from a camera and a notepad, food bloggers should now look into carrying audio recorders.
If you’re ever in the mood for a drink and some great snacks, this is a great place to go, especially with that 4AM liquor license. However, Kenmare is not a spot for fine dining, unless you enjoy shouting at your date.
CS
Rating: 
Kenmare
98 Kenmare Street
New York, NY 10012
