In my time reviewing New York restaurants, a lot of research is put into the restaurant and its chefs. The experience of dining is more than the sensation on the taste buds, but also the history of the establishment, the story of the owner, the chef, and their trials and tribulations. As I cover more restaurants on this blog, there are moments when I find that I have only begun to scratch the surface of the culinary world. I encountered one such moment today as I began my research on the restaurant Marc Forgione, a Michelin star winning restaurant in Tribeca named after its head chef.
When I first read the chef’s bio on the restaurant’s official website, I noticed that it mentioned that Marc was the son of a culinary legend, Larry Forgione. I have to admit at that time I paid very little attention to this “legendary” status. After all, it’s a website bio, used to promote the restaurant. Boy was I wrong.
In order to make up for my amateurish mistake, I’m going to sidetrack from my usual restaurant review and spend some time talking about the legendary Larry Forgione. A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America in the early 70s, Mr. Forgione quickly established himself as a new force in American cuisine. His insistence on using fresh, local produce not only changed the customer’s expectations on taste, it also changed how New York restaurants sourced materials. In fact, Larry Forgione coined the term “free-range chicken” for the naturally raised commercial poultry, a term still used widely today. In 1983 he opened An American Place in the Upper East Side to rave reviews, and became a New York staple of fine dining for the next 20 years. Through 3 location changes, today Mr. Forgione’s culinary empire is focused mostly in the Mid-West and Las Vegas, but his contributions to the Big Apple’s dining scene is tremendous.
Carrying his father’s legacy, and the weight of the last name, Marc Forgione opened his restaurant in 2008 under the name “Forge”, a nickname he shared with his father. The restaurant was later renamed Marc Forgione because of a naming dispute with another restaurant named Forge, in Miami. When your last name is Forgione, I guess you are an marked target.
Unassuming exterior.
Located in the heart of Tribeca on Reade Street, it’s not where you’d expect to find a trendy eatery, especially on the damp winter night when the streets were mostly empty. I parked the car 3 blocks away and walked by Bouley Marketplace, closed and empty at 8PM. I was expecting a quiet evening and a quick dinner. The exterior of the restaurant is very subdued, no flashy signs, not even the new name (there was Forge printed in small black letters). We arrived 30 minutes before the reservation, and although there were a few empty tables, I was told they were all reserved. Making our way to the bar for a quick drink, I noticed people constantly streaming into the restaurant. Before long all the tables were packed, and the restaurant was buzzing with utensils and conversation.
Warm, wooden tables. (taken in between seatings)
The menu was an exciting mix of fresh, seasonal ingredients. Extra attention is given to naming the source of each ingredient, something Larry Forgione pioneered. From my table, I observed the decoration of the dining space, which used rustic, warm ornaments to create a trendy and stylish atmosphere. The custom candle boxes hanging from the ceiling is a focal point of the dining room.
Beautiful candles in suspended boxes.
For appetizers, I had a Kona Kampachi Tartare served with Avocado. The dish also came with what they called a Sechuan Button, which was a tiny flake of a peppercorn like substance. I had half the tartare before the “button”, and half after. The instant tingling sensation you get from tasting the “button” gave the dish two unique flavors, very fun!
Tartare over a bed of Avocado.
The oh so fun Sechuan Button
My guest ordered a shrimp risotto, which was good, but doesn’t come with nearly as much fun as mine did. We also had excellent warm bread, and a complimentary sample of laughing bird shrimp tortellini.
Tortellini filled with "laughing bird shrimp"
For entrees I went with scallops, specifically marked as from Stonington, CT. They were big, plump, and seared to perfection. It was served with the James Beard salad, a tribute to the late Mr. Beard, who was a great friend of Larry Forgione. The other entree was striped bass, seasoned exceptionally well and served over a bed of mushroom. I heard great things about his bass with prosciutto, which wasn’t available, but I can’t imagine it being better than this.
Scallops sitting on sticks of daikon raddish.
Delicious striped bass
The portions are not huge, but very satisfying. We opted to share a light dessert, a wonderful coffee creme brulee.
Coffee crème brûlée, two of my favorite things.
The dinner was a great experience: great food, excellent decor, and a solid value. Definitely worthy of its Michelin star. I am, however, a bit sad that I never had a chance to sample Larry Forgione’s An American Place before it closed (relocated to St. Louis). However I’m very hopeful that Marc Forgione can continue his family’s legacy of culinary excellence in New York, and this little restaurant in Tribeca is just the beginning.
CS
Rating: 
Marc Forgione (Make a Reservation)
134 Reade St
New York NY10013 (Btwn Greenwich & Hudson St)
