SD 26 is what happens to an Italian restaurant when it plops down between 5th and Madison avenue. It picks up a New York attitude and sheds most of the quaint rustic feel–perhaps even its authentic taste. The restaurant starts off misleadingly narrow but opens up to a spacious dining room. Smaller alcoves flag the side of the hallway, and at the end a hostess and a glass display of white truffles.
not a bad place to lounge!
A team of sommeliers make their rounds to supplement the electronic wine list. Touch screens and graphics will save the older folk from the glasses on/off routine. The actual menu is quite a bit more challenging. Many of the dishes come in small and large portions, so pairing two main courses or any number of permutations are encouraged.
the latest in service technology...and no smudges
Opening the menu, you’ll first encounter the insert. In it, it lists the price of white truffle per gram. $8 a gram of truffles that you can add to the selected entrees.
It was recommended to me that I start with something from their selection of cured meats and pair that with something out of their equally varied cheeses (on the lighter side of course). My mom went with the classic prosciutto, I went with…
Pork Cheeks.
piggie and byproduct
I really thought pork belly was the be all end all of fat-happy appetizers, but if my plate was closer to the candle, everything probably would have melted. Having the whole plate on your own is definitely a feat, and for some I imagine, a struggle.
Now, while all this is processing, bread baskets are circulating the room. I forgot to mention the open kitchen, but you’ll be able to see the freshly baked bread come right out along with your orders.
Back to the food if you have the room for it (which you obviously should. I generously let myself sample all the breads and that was more than five pieces). The servers brought over a small dish compliments of the chef. Not terribly memorable, but the eggplants were a nice way to transition to the main course. Free food however, does have that extra dimension of satisfaction.
this was good, free makes it great
Now some thoughts on the array of entrees. I had picked small portions of both the gnocchi and grilled octopus. In all honestly I was disappointed. The meal was all crescendo up to this point and I felt things just fell short. The flavors of the Octopus just wasn’t there, I would have liked it a bit more charred and a bit more heavily seasoned. The gummy texture added to the unrefined result. The gnocchi, with mussels was also off the mark. Something about it made me think sweet, which is a taste I would rarely want to associate with pasta and seafood. Now to be a little nicer. My brother’s full size serving of lamb chops was in his words “phenomenal.” Tender, juicy, and well executed all around. A typical dish no doubt, but consistency is part of what makes a restaurant great.
italian style tako
gnocchi with mussels, don't spare the salt
an oldie but a goodie
The pictures for the other dishes will speak for themselves. Everyone was satisfied, but certainly not wowed by the experience. Before the bit on dessert, I’d just like to acknowledge the comfortable and attentive service. They were knowledgeable, available, and personable.
The dessert was a good way to end the night, though most of the table was already incapacitated and slipping out of consciousness by the starch heavy diet.
always, always have room for dessert...or just make room.
SD 26 is a restaurant with identity issues. Like the out of stater in New York, it’s stuck between Italian wholesomeness and New York better-than-thou spunk. It wants to be welcoming and exclusive, hearty and portioned. Consequently it fails to be completely in tune. Once it carves out for itself the right image there is no real reason for it to be far away from at least moderate success.
Jessie
Rating: 
SD26 (Make a Reservation)
19 East 26th Street
New York, NY 10010
