(The first ever article on EatBigApple, the restaurant has unfortunately closed this April due to financial difficulties. The food was great, but it was quite obvious business was not up to par. Perhaps the hidden nature of the restaurant was to blame. Farewell, and hopefully Geoffrey Zakarian’s next efforts have the same great food, and better business success)

For a chef, making it in the Big Apple is tremendous. Many well established culinary giants have met  cruel defeat upon opening their New York destination. Some try again (Ducasse, Ramsey), others retreat back to cities less critical.

In the sea of restaurants that line the streets of Manhattan, there are only perhaps a handful where you can name the chef, or owner, without walking towards the menu. Craft, Del Posto to name a few (plus the namesakes). When Town opened, it was destined for such fanfare. Located in the uber trendy Chambers Hotel in Mid-town Manhattan, it had the perfect location on 56th ave., a supply of chic hotel guests that are more than capable of paying the bill, and a top Manhattan chef Geoffrey Zakarian. Initial feedback was exceptional, instantly becoming one of those hot tables in town (no pun intended).

Sure it has been a few years since the madness that is a new restaurant, but real quality restaurants should remain packed year after year, so I decided to venture into Town, and experience it for myself.

Yet another "you should know where to find me" type of sign.

We arrived early on a Saturday afternoon, the streets were bustling with tourists, yet the lobby remained quiet. We were early for our reservation, and decided to have a drink in the Library-like lobby. We were told that we would be notified when our tables were ready. Since I typed this out you can probably guess that somebody forgot.

Lychee Martini

Sure it was only 6:15 when we sat down, but the restaurant felt empty. Our waiter was a gentleman who was way too descriptive, as if we knew nothing about food. Can’t blame him for the effort. We decided to try the tasting menu, since nothing else showcases the culinary mastery.

Looks good, just a tad empty

The tasting menu began with a tartare and the Hawaiian Shrimp special that the server so diligently promoted. Both tasted good, but not spectacular.

From Hawaii?

At this point it was coming close to 7:00PM, there were probably 5 tables in this restaurant. Was it because of the food? The worry proved to be unnecessary as I was pleasantly surprised when our plates arrived. We ordered the Duck Steak and the Angus (or is it Wagyu?). The beef was nicely cooked, and was plated next to a stack of thinly sliced potatoes. A safe choice when I ordered, and yet still exceeded my expectations.

Steak

The highlight of the evening, was the duck steak. If you’re not used to eating bird, or your brain conjures the image of Peking Duck when that word is mentioned, throw all of that out the window. The duck steak tasted divine. Perfectly cooked, slightly fatty, and with a brilliant sauce. It’s one dish I’d definitely go back for.

Epic, if such word is to be used in cooking.

Desert was, well, literally forgettable. I really cannot recall what I ate.

All in all, I would say this restaurant is still among the elite. However, the situation concerns me. Restaurants like Jean Georges take weeks in advance to book a table, yet I managed to nab a table at Town on 1 days notice. It’s one thing to have made it, but it’s another to sustain it like the best of’em.

Rating:  

Price: $50/person, around $100 for tasting menu.

15 West 56th Street (Between 5th and 6th, northern side of street)
New York, NY 10019

January 21st, 2009 | Tags: 3 Apples, Duck Steak, Hotel, Romantic, tasting menu, Town, Town Review | Category: American | Subscribe to comments | Leave a comment | Trackback URL