For as long as I could remember, when you talk about great pizza in New York, most people refer to the greatness of the past. In fact, two of the most famous pizza joints: Grimaldi’s and Lombardi’s all date back over a century in one form or another.
Motorino, East Village
As other forms of foods prospered, I wondered why there aren’t more specialty pizza restaurants. When I’m telling my future children about where to get a great pizza, will I be mentioning Grimaldi’s still? I’m no pizza expert, but I know a good pizza when I taste one. The pizza at Motorino was one of the best I’ve ever tasted. With their “Since 2008″ sign proudly on the sign, it seems that Motorino is looking to establish itself as a New York icon for the ages.
Imagine an EV pizza joint, this'd be it.
It’s certainly off to a great start. Since 2008, many have proclaimed it the best pie in New York. Bruni, Sifton, and even Batali. The man behind this timeless New York tradition of dough, sauce and a wood fired oven is Mathieu Palombino, a chef with a Michelin-star background in haute cuisine.
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At least that’s what I think. If you disagree, no fear, there’s more to Popbar than its chilly treats. Walking in from the dreary, dark-at-5pm outside, the space is refreshingly and delightfully colorful. Feast your eyes on row after row of popsicles–all made from imported Italian ingredients. Pick between creamy licks, guilt-free yogurts, fruity bars or some combination thereof. A variety of toppings and dips are also available, but I like to keep it simple. To start, the strawberry, which was dotted with seeds and tasted almost as natural as it looked. As for the hazelnut, it was nutty as expected, but I had hoped it were even creamier. It may be however, that it was already pushing the cream frontiers of Popsicles, which are, after all, not ice cream.
A beautiful sight.
Gourmet Italian strawberry bar.
Of course, the star of this cold day was the hot chocolate on a stick. Bars of milk, white, dark chocolate are crafted like popsicles and are paired with a steamy cup of milk. It certainly calls for some degree of patience as the chocolate slowly melts into the milk. Once infused, the hot chocolate is a lovely contrast with the pops. You can even buy them by the pack and heat the milk yourself.
Melty popsicle
Overall, PopBar doesn’t disappoint. As a novelty specialty store, it may have difficulty in creating a following. For me, Popsicles somewhat lack the satisfaction (calories) gotten from consuming a two-scoop ice cream. With that said, in the warmer months I can see PopBar being an oasis. I hope it can satisfy a certain craving, especially since it delivers!
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Tapas as a trend has serious pros and cons. The small plates for grazing usually leave me either short of satiated or short on cash. And yet, how does the casual wine pairing ambiance ever fall from favor–Iberico ham scores points even if sparingly rationed. With that said, I found myself last Sunday, 30 minutes away from a seat for two. Tertulia was the coveted meal of the night, and with Chef Mullen basking in praise, I was excited to see what he had put together. While Tertulia used to denote a literary salon, I was looking now for a different kind of inspiration.
Tertulia on 6 Avenida
A view at the kitchen.
The space was small, like their plates. The half dozen plus bar seats open up to a slightly larger dining area, exposing you to the hustle and bustle of the back of house. Having walked past the cheese display, we immediately kick-started our meal with a trio of cheese and two glasses of simple red. Tertulia’s Asturias roots brings its diners closer to the “cheese capital” of Spain and we were certainly pleased with the plate. Being Asian, I still struggle with the intricacies of cheese, but every meal is a chance to brave stinkier dairy still. This Northern region of Spain is home to Cabrales among others, apparently often endowing their cheeses with the “fragrant taste of clovers” says the New York Times, due to the green grass in the area. I could have benefited from a better explanation from the staff, but I am sure more tempered palates will enjoy their selection. Continue reading Tertulia Review – Small Plates, Big Flavor
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As a fan of traditional Japanese cuisine, it’s always a bit difficult to write about a neighborhood Japanese restaurant, where the odds of success hinge on the creativity of Americanized sushi rolls and “fusion” dishes. Trying to present my view on these places is like asking a student of classic oil paintings to judge modern sculptures. Perhaps I’m the one at fault for not appreciating some of the complex flavors and textures from these rolls, but as I learn I can only judge upon what I know.
Waza in Clinton Hill
Waza Sushi and Ramen in Clinton Hill is one such neighborhood Japanese restaurant that I recently visited. The name, which translates roughly into “craft” or “skill”, is an ambitious attempt to please both diners of raw fish and noodle in fatty pork broth. In an up and coming neighborhood where adventurous diners are still few and far between, they also have a full kitchen churning out hot dishes for those who prefer their fish less translucent.
Not surpisingly given the restaurant’s name, the sushi and ramen are the standouts. Our meal started with a sashimi platter featuring many premium cuts of fish and shellfish, with fairly pleasant plating that is more shock-and-awe than to subtle pleasure. I was very pleasantly surprised to see real grated wasabi (not sure how pure though) rather than the powder based mixture found at most Japanese restaurants. The raw seafood was very fresh, and the ample slice sizes are very satisfying.
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Mercado on Kent is a project that would be ambitious even in Manhattan. So much so that I was surprised to have never heard about the project until a week prior to its soft opening. The gleaming new restaurant space is two stories tall, and with its unique position on a downward sloping street, appears bigger than it already is. Spanish chef Peru Almandoz, whose impressive resume that includes El Bulli and Arzak, presents a Basque style Spanish tapas menu. His sous-chef Nicholas Porcelli recently had a solid run on Chopped and prior to that worked under the Craft Restaurant Group.
Mercado on Kent
If you go into the basement, you’ll see a gigantic wood fired oven from Italy the size of most New York bedrooms. The place bakes all its breads in house, and plans to start a retail/wholesale presence. The baker is Johnny Peralta, an alumnus of Balthazar.
The basement kitchen for bread.
The reason you probably haven’t heard about this till now? It’s in Williamsburg Brooklyn, south near the bridge, next to the defunct Dominos Factory. It’s a few blocks away from all the bustling Williamsburg shops and restaurants to the East and the North. The neighborhood is quickly transforming, and Mercado on Kent is here to serve its future neighbors. Continue reading Mercado on Kent – Grand Plans South of Grand Street
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